Let me start off by saying that if you come to Kyoto and don’t rent a bicycle, you’re insane. After the last few days in Kyoto, I really really enjoyed it here, after today, I now love Kyoto. It’s amazing what a difference the bike made. After the disaster that was yesterday and the miles I put on walking, I knew I couldn’t make the same mistake twice. I woke up, skipped over breakfast and lunch and went right to pick up a bike from the local rental place by 10am. I knew I was going to be covering a lot of ground and wanted to start the day as early as the rental store opened up. Here was my ride for the day…
This is the upgraded model, it cost 1,500 Yen for the day. The base model was 1,000 Yen but I spent the extra for one without a basket case, I'm pretty happy I did. This thing drove amazingly, I want a bike just like this! Also, while on the subject of bicycles, you can buy a bike at a store in Japan for about $50 - $100. I think this has a lot to do with the fact that everyone has a bike in Japan since it’s so ridiculously cheap and easily available. As you continue reading today's blog, you might not see as many pictures as I've normally posted but I tried going for quality over quantity with the pictures I've chosen to post today.
I drive around the block for a few mins just to get the hang of the bike and instantly I feel like I've been driving this thing for years. Also, without hesitation, I'm crossing right in the middle of streets, going on and off sidewalks, and darting in between the traffic of people on the sidewalks. In just minutes, I went from feeling like a tourist to feeling like a local who has been in Kyoto forever. The sense of familiarity was amazing even though I only knew the places I've already been to and everything today was going to be new. I was so happy on this bicycle, I couldn’t contain it.
My first stop was the Kinkakuji Temple. This temple was about 4 miles away and unlike yesterday when it took me about 2 hours to walk 6 miles, this only took me about 20 mins. I knew that of the 4 things I had on my must-see list today, the bike would make sure I saw them all. Knowing that no more time would be wasted walking was exhilarating. Also, the feeling I get from riding a bike is infinitely better than walking, with the wind in my face, and the feeling of owning the road.
Ok, I can talk about how amazing riding a bike in Kyoto felt but I'll spare you. I get to the Kinkakuji Temple and I need to figure out how to store my bike while I go see the sights. I find where all the bikes are and where I need to park but can’t for the life of me find where to lock up my bike. Turns out in Japan, Kyoto at least, all you do is you lock your back tired to the frame of your bike and that’s it. This boggled my mind that the bike wasn’t locked to anything except itself. I lock it up like everyone else and walk away assuming that when I get back it will be stolen.
This is the Kinkakuji Temple. It’s called the “Golden Pavilion” and for good reason. The 2nd and 3rd floors are covered with gold-leaf on Japanese lacquer. It’s an amazing sight to behold seeing this gorgeous temple covered in gold sitting on top of a completely still lake. There are times when silence is amazing to hear the world around you but there are times like today when music makes everything better. I forgot the song I had on but everything was clicking, the music, the scenery, it just clicked. This is the first of many times this happened today.
After finishing the Kinkakuji Temple, I come back to my bicycle and find it sitting exactly where I left it. Unbelievable, they just don’t have crime out here, whether it be violence or theft. My bike would be gone in the states in 3 mins after I left it unlocked, whether I lock the back tire or not!
As I leave the spectacular Kinkakuji Temple, I plan on going to something called the Path of Philosophy but with the bicycle at my disposal, things just come up that aren’t planned. For example, I saw signs for the Kyoto Botanical Garden and it was a good walk distance away but with the bike, nothing is out of reach. So this is how my list of 4 must-see things in Kyoto grows exponentially and eventually I lose track of how much I did today.
I get to the area near the Kyoto Botanical Garden and it is also near the Kamogawa River, the same river I saw several times a few days ago. The paths on the side of this river look very welcoming so I take the bike and decide to head on over there and relax for a bit along the river with everyone else who is spending their beautiful Monday here.
After I leave this area, I continue riding around without paying much attention to the map. I figured that no matter where I go, I'd be able to find my way back. I actually started using the Sun to determine my location, it worked, I was able to guess I was heading East because of the Sun’s position in the sky, I was very proud of myself. It’s all these boy scout tricks I learned by never being a boy scout!
After seeing all of this, I make the long trek back down the stairs and leave the Kyoto University of Art and Design. I know this isn’t high on the list of things to do in Kyoto but I really recommend it if you have the opportunity. It’s a very modern location in a very historic and traditional city.
After these diversions from my destination, I finally get to the Path of Philosophy. This little gem tucked away behind some busy streets is an incredibly beautiful, quiet and remote walk along a little river with tiny retail and food stores and private residences all along the sides. I get off my bicycle and decide to walk this because it’s too relaxing to fly through on my bike. I want to let the sound of the water guide me along this path.
The colors of the trees and cherry blossoms are magnificent and you really do forget about all the wrongs in the world and anything going on in your life at that moment and just let the tranquility of the path overwhelm you.
After the approximately 30 minute walk through the Path of Philosophy, I make my way towards my next destination. I get a little distracted by a baseball game being played at about 3pm on a Monday by a group of grown men. Doesn’t anyone work around here? What happened with that inhumane Japanese work week I keep hearing so much about?
Next on my list of must-see places in Kyoto is the Heian Shrine. This was on my must-see list but once I get there, I remember why.
I leave the Heian Shrine overwhelmed with peace, it was easily my favorite part of today, well, up until this point that is, I'll get to this soon. Now I am off to my last must-see location of the day but I get distracted by the Maruyama Park. I was already here a few days ago but there is something I should’ve seen but didn’t. Of course, even this I get distracted from. I see another temple and have to take it’s picture…
This is the Chion-in Temple. Through this entrance are a ton of stairs in front of me, unfortunately this temple closes early so I don’t bother buying a ticket to get in. It’s a shame because I would’ve loved taking pictures at the garden at the top of those steps.
While I'm here I decide to get another drink, gotta replenish myself from all this bike riding. And yes, I know, I still haven’t had anything to eat and I've already been awake for about 8 hours at this point.
After this diversion, I'm back on track to my last official stop of the day, the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple. As I ride my bike to this temple, I completely forget why it’s on my list of must-see items. I get there, park my bike, pay the admission fee and take my shoes off to enter the temple. I still for the life of me can’t remember why I needed to come here. I walk past the visitor information booth, I round a corner, and immediately I am reminded why I came here. Unfortunately, they basically threaten your life when it comes to taking pictures so I can’t show you what made me come here but I did find a picture on the Internet that shows you an example of what I saw…
Sanjūsangen-dō Temple is home to the 1,000 statues of Kannon. Trust me when I say this, the brain has a very very hard time absorbing what it is you’re seeing in this building. The above picture is about 500 of these statues. In the middle is a large version of these individual statues that they are modeled after and then on the other side is the remaining 500. They are supposed to represent the 1,000 arms of Kannon (the goddess of mercy). They are all life size and perfectly lined up. The building is 100 meters and is Japan’s longest wooden building. You take this walk very very slowly and you can’t begin to lift your jaw up off the floor over what you are seeing. It is easily the most amazing thing I have seen on this trip, and possibly in my life. I am in awe of this temple.
I continue walking behind the statues to read about this temple and it’s history and keep contemplating taking my camera out but I refuse to disrespect the people who work here as well as the belief that pictures should not be taken of religious statues. I respect that 100% and it just makes what I saw with my own two eyes that much more amazing knowing that they really want you to be here to see it.
I leave the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple with a new found sense of astonishment. I walk around the grounds afterwards but I feel like my feet aren’t on the ground and that I am floating above it on a cloud. Here are some more pictures I took before i left here for the day…
After the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple, I don’t know what else to do, I mean, what can possibly top this? I decide to not try and top it and return the bike. I ride through the Gion District one more time since it’s on the way back to the bike rental place. I see a few geishas and this time I see the theater they perform at. Here they show off their art and play music. Unfortunately tonight’s show was sold out. I’m hoping in Osaka they might have something similar that I can go see.
After this, I finally return the bike to the rental place. I am pretty sure I used that bike as much as I possibly could’ve. I must’ve done 20 miles in Kyoto alone. I saw more than I ever expected to see and really can’t stress enough that anyone visiting Kyoto should rent a bike, you will not be sorry.
I finally decide to get myself a meal after this long day. I definitely worked up an appetite beyond the few drinks I had earlier. I decide I'll take it easy since the next few days in Osaka will be a food extravaganza. Here was my one and only meal of the day…
On the left was udon soup with tofu and some bok-choy. In the middle was some more pickled vegetables. On the right was what tasted like beef cartilage and onions over rice. It was amazing, I think I may have even licked the bowl after it was that good!
Oh, and one comment on eating in Japan. Unlike in America, it is completely normal for people to eat alone. This has made the idea of me eating alone all the time not weird at all but instead completely normal in this culture. Every time I go somewhere to eat, there is easily 10 or so people eating alone. More people eat alone than together with someone else. I’m really happy about this because I never mind eating alone even though in the American culture, this is seen as sad and something lonely people do. This is not the case in Japan and I just wanted to comment on that.
Also, one more thing I want to comment before I sign off the for day. When you look at temples on maps in Japan, they are represented by a swastika. It takes a bit of getting used to when it comes to this because of the stigma that most people associate with a swastika. I come to find out that in the Buddhist culture, it is a very important symbol representing temples. Historically it is said to represent a lucky object, and this definitely applies to temples. I just wanted to make note of this for those visiting Japan to not be put off by seeing these on all of the maps you will use.
Ok, that’s it for Kyoto, tomorrow I take off for Osaka. I really have no idea what to expect there except for a lot of good food from what I hear. They also have an area called Dotonbori which is supposed to be some of the best night life in all of Japan and amazing food to boot! Leaving Kyoto is sad, I liked it the last few days but after today, I fell in love with it. This day in particular was not only my favorite day of this trip, but one of the best in my life. This trip just continues to get better and better!
Oyasuminasai.
- DAK
This is the upgraded model, it cost 1,500 Yen for the day. The base model was 1,000 Yen but I spent the extra for one without a basket case, I'm pretty happy I did. This thing drove amazingly, I want a bike just like this! Also, while on the subject of bicycles, you can buy a bike at a store in Japan for about $50 - $100. I think this has a lot to do with the fact that everyone has a bike in Japan since it’s so ridiculously cheap and easily available. As you continue reading today's blog, you might not see as many pictures as I've normally posted but I tried going for quality over quantity with the pictures I've chosen to post today.
I drive around the block for a few mins just to get the hang of the bike and instantly I feel like I've been driving this thing for years. Also, without hesitation, I'm crossing right in the middle of streets, going on and off sidewalks, and darting in between the traffic of people on the sidewalks. In just minutes, I went from feeling like a tourist to feeling like a local who has been in Kyoto forever. The sense of familiarity was amazing even though I only knew the places I've already been to and everything today was going to be new. I was so happy on this bicycle, I couldn’t contain it.
My first stop was the Kinkakuji Temple. This temple was about 4 miles away and unlike yesterday when it took me about 2 hours to walk 6 miles, this only took me about 20 mins. I knew that of the 4 things I had on my must-see list today, the bike would make sure I saw them all. Knowing that no more time would be wasted walking was exhilarating. Also, the feeling I get from riding a bike is infinitely better than walking, with the wind in my face, and the feeling of owning the road.
Ok, I can talk about how amazing riding a bike in Kyoto felt but I'll spare you. I get to the Kinkakuji Temple and I need to figure out how to store my bike while I go see the sights. I find where all the bikes are and where I need to park but can’t for the life of me find where to lock up my bike. Turns out in Japan, Kyoto at least, all you do is you lock your back tired to the frame of your bike and that’s it. This boggled my mind that the bike wasn’t locked to anything except itself. I lock it up like everyone else and walk away assuming that when I get back it will be stolen.
Here is the walk to the Kinkakuji Temple from the front gates.
Yes this was my breakfast. I was too excited to stop somewhere and eat so I had a liquid breakfast. This stuff is amazing, it’s like eating an actual orange!
This is the Kinkakuji Temple. It’s called the “Golden Pavilion” and for good reason. The 2nd and 3rd floors are covered with gold-leaf on Japanese lacquer. It’s an amazing sight to behold seeing this gorgeous temple covered in gold sitting on top of a completely still lake. There are times when silence is amazing to hear the world around you but there are times like today when music makes everything better. I forgot the song I had on but everything was clicking, the music, the scenery, it just clicked. This is the first of many times this happened today.
Here is a close up of the gold-leaf so you can see that it really is golden.
These are the stairs leaving the Kinkakuji Temple. Have I mentioned how much the Japanese love their stairs?
After finishing the Kinkakuji Temple, I come back to my bicycle and find it sitting exactly where I left it. Unbelievable, they just don’t have crime out here, whether it be violence or theft. My bike would be gone in the states in 3 mins after I left it unlocked, whether I lock the back tire or not!
As I leave the spectacular Kinkakuji Temple, I plan on going to something called the Path of Philosophy but with the bicycle at my disposal, things just come up that aren’t planned. For example, I saw signs for the Kyoto Botanical Garden and it was a good walk distance away but with the bike, nothing is out of reach. So this is how my list of 4 must-see things in Kyoto grows exponentially and eventually I lose track of how much I did today.
I get to the area near the Kyoto Botanical Garden and it is also near the Kamogawa River, the same river I saw several times a few days ago. The paths on the side of this river look very welcoming so I take the bike and decide to head on over there and relax for a bit along the river with everyone else who is spending their beautiful Monday here.
I wanted to show you what it's like riding on my bike along side the Kamogawa River directly next to the Kyoto Botanical Gardens.
The cherry blossoms are unfortunately beginning to get out of season for the most part in Japan but there are some still left around that are still very much blossoming. The cherry blossom season is very short, that’s why timing is so important. Unfortunately in mid-April, it’s not the peak anymore so my trip was a tad late but it’s ok, what is still left around is still amazing.
I love that in Japan, you don’t need to ask people to take your picture, they come up to you and insist on it. I can’t say no to that! This lady was meditating by the river and stopped what she was doing to take this picture, such a generous society!
She didn’t take this one, I took this one. I was inspired by the similar picture of my friend Rob. It’s just too good of a picture to pass up on!
After I leave this area, I continue riding around without paying much attention to the map. I figured that no matter where I go, I'd be able to find my way back. I actually started using the Sun to determine my location, it worked, I was able to guess I was heading East because of the Sun’s position in the sky, I was very proud of myself. It’s all these boy scout tricks I learned by never being a boy scout!
After riding through the main campus of Kyoto University, I came to this, the Kyoto Concert Hall.
Easily one of the best surprises of this random route I decided to take was stumbling upon the Kyoto University of Art and Design. We all know that Japan is a very very weird country, now take that weirdness and now think about what the art school students would be. They are normally the out of the box eccentric people to begin with, in Japan they are that to the nth degree. The next few pictures are all from the Kyoto University of Art and Design…
The stairs to get up to the main entrance.
A gigantic umbrella/parasol/bumbershoot next to a pond of water. I’m surprised Seattle doesn’t have one of these.
More stairs. This time, you’re only seeing about 1/10 of all of the stairs I took to get to the top of this campus. I didn’t count but I’m convinced it had to be 400 stairs in total at this campus since it is built into/on a mountain.
I finally get to the top and there is so much going on, it’s difficult to digest it all. The random balloon in the middle with people holding rope attached to it is something I completely didn’t understand.
This is the view from the top of the building. It’s quite the vista you get and it must be incredibly inspiring for the students working a few steps away from where I was taking this picture.
Ok, I think I know what’s going on here. The girl on the left of this picture is where the camera will be, so she's telling the guy down below how to place tape so that from her angle, it looks like a seamless image but from the side it looks like nothing. I’ve seen this before actually, here is a link to show you an example of what I think they’re trying to do (click here).
I walked the several hundred steps to get to the very very top of the mountainside campus of the Kyoto University of Art and Design. It was amazing at the top with all of the kids working on their school projects with the majestic view of Kyoto in the background.
Here is another picture of some more kids taping up the walls to further make me think I'm right about my guess. It must be some school project. If I am right, the amount of time and work involved with setting this up is extremely daunting and impressive.
After seeing all of this, I make the long trek back down the stairs and leave the Kyoto University of Art and Design. I know this isn’t high on the list of things to do in Kyoto but I really recommend it if you have the opportunity. It’s a very modern location in a very historic and traditional city.
After these diversions from my destination, I finally get to the Path of Philosophy. This little gem tucked away behind some busy streets is an incredibly beautiful, quiet and remote walk along a little river with tiny retail and food stores and private residences all along the sides. I get off my bicycle and decide to walk this because it’s too relaxing to fly through on my bike. I want to let the sound of the water guide me along this path.
The colors of the trees and cherry blossoms are magnificent and you really do forget about all the wrongs in the world and anything going on in your life at that moment and just let the tranquility of the path overwhelm you.
After the approximately 30 minute walk through the Path of Philosophy, I make my way towards my next destination. I get a little distracted by a baseball game being played at about 3pm on a Monday by a group of grown men. Doesn’t anyone work around here? What happened with that inhumane Japanese work week I keep hearing so much about?
I stopped to take a picture because I love the fact that you can see the temple that I am on my way to in the top left corner of this picture. Just shows how Kyoto was built around the temples, not the other way around.
I am completely beginning to see the obsession the Japanese have with taking picture of flowers and trees. I almost can’t help myself anymore when I see a flower. Even the youth of Japan do it, that speaks volumes.
Next on my list of must-see places in Kyoto is the Heian Shrine. This was on my must-see list but once I get there, I remember why.
This is me on the bicycle darting through traffic to get this picture.
If this looks familiar to any of you out there, then you get a high-five from me. The second time Charlotte (Scarlet Johannsen) in Lost in Translation visits a temple, she comes here. Unfortunately she said it was a temple but Heian is actually a shrine, whoops!
I love this picture because I turned around and saw EVERYONE with their camera/cell phone out taking pictures of the shrine.
I went into the garden at the Heian Shrine and it is without a doubt the best garden I've seen in all of Japan. It’s huge and gets more and more beautiful as you walk through it all. The water is crystal clear, you can see the bottom and the fish chasing each other.
From where I took this picture, it looks completely fake because nothing can be this perfect, but I was wrong, this can.
Here is the waterfall that filters into the several ponds that are located throughout the Heian Shrine garden.
Here they are, the steps made famous (to me at least) in Lost in Translation. Charlotte walks these very steps, the same steps I have now walked. Here is a video of me to prove it…
I now think I’ve done about 90% of the things shown in that movie. I'll have to come back to Japan another time and do the remaining 10%!
There might not be a ton of cherry blossom trees still around but the ones left are beautiful.
I leave the Heian Shrine overwhelmed with peace, it was easily my favorite part of today, well, up until this point that is, I'll get to this soon. Now I am off to my last must-see location of the day but I get distracted by the Maruyama Park. I was already here a few days ago but there is something I should’ve seen but didn’t. Of course, even this I get distracted from. I see another temple and have to take it’s picture…
This is the Chion-in Temple. Through this entrance are a ton of stairs in front of me, unfortunately this temple closes early so I don’t bother buying a ticket to get in. It’s a shame because I would’ve loved taking pictures at the garden at the top of those steps.
While I'm here I decide to get another drink, gotta replenish myself from all this bike riding. And yes, I know, I still haven’t had anything to eat and I've already been awake for about 8 hours at this point.
This stuff is amazing! It tastes just like apple juice with a hint of tea, the perfect subtle taste of tea. If you see this, buy it, you will be very happy you did!
Yes, a sign in a park showing what to do in case of an earthquake. “Quickly put out fire” seems easier said than done.
This is the famous weeping cherry blossom tree. It normally gets lit up at night when it’s in full bloom but since it’s not anymore, they don’t light it up anymore. Here is what it should look like when it’s in full bloom, I found this on the Internet as an example…
You can see the pink color it should be, compared to the color it is now in the picture I took above.
After this diversion, I'm back on track to my last official stop of the day, the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple. As I ride my bike to this temple, I completely forget why it’s on my list of must-see items. I get there, park my bike, pay the admission fee and take my shoes off to enter the temple. I still for the life of me can’t remember why I needed to come here. I walk past the visitor information booth, I round a corner, and immediately I am reminded why I came here. Unfortunately, they basically threaten your life when it comes to taking pictures so I can’t show you what made me come here but I did find a picture on the Internet that shows you an example of what I saw…
Sanjūsangen-dō Temple is home to the 1,000 statues of Kannon. Trust me when I say this, the brain has a very very hard time absorbing what it is you’re seeing in this building. The above picture is about 500 of these statues. In the middle is a large version of these individual statues that they are modeled after and then on the other side is the remaining 500. They are supposed to represent the 1,000 arms of Kannon (the goddess of mercy). They are all life size and perfectly lined up. The building is 100 meters and is Japan’s longest wooden building. You take this walk very very slowly and you can’t begin to lift your jaw up off the floor over what you are seeing. It is easily the most amazing thing I have seen on this trip, and possibly in my life. I am in awe of this temple.
I continue walking behind the statues to read about this temple and it’s history and keep contemplating taking my camera out but I refuse to disrespect the people who work here as well as the belief that pictures should not be taken of religious statues. I respect that 100% and it just makes what I saw with my own two eyes that much more amazing knowing that they really want you to be here to see it.
I leave the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple with a new found sense of astonishment. I walk around the grounds afterwards but I feel like my feet aren’t on the ground and that I am floating above it on a cloud. Here are some more pictures I took before i left here for the day…
I wanted to get a picture to show off the size of this building but I don’t think pictures can do it justice.
The door was open very slightly and even though one of the workers caught me, I managed to sneak this picture of two of the 1,000 statues in this temple. Imagine 998 more of these, each bigger than the average size man.
After the Sanjūsangen-dō Temple, I don’t know what else to do, I mean, what can possibly top this? I decide to not try and top it and return the bike. I ride through the Gion District one more time since it’s on the way back to the bike rental place. I see a few geishas and this time I see the theater they perform at. Here they show off their art and play music. Unfortunately tonight’s show was sold out. I’m hoping in Osaka they might have something similar that I can go see.
The bike ride to Gion along side the Kamogawa River.
The theater in the Gion District where the geisha perform.
After this, I finally return the bike to the rental place. I am pretty sure I used that bike as much as I possibly could’ve. I must’ve done 20 miles in Kyoto alone. I saw more than I ever expected to see and really can’t stress enough that anyone visiting Kyoto should rent a bike, you will not be sorry.
I finally decide to get myself a meal after this long day. I definitely worked up an appetite beyond the few drinks I had earlier. I decide I'll take it easy since the next few days in Osaka will be a food extravaganza. Here was my one and only meal of the day…
On the left was udon soup with tofu and some bok-choy. In the middle was some more pickled vegetables. On the right was what tasted like beef cartilage and onions over rice. It was amazing, I think I may have even licked the bowl after it was that good!
Oh, and one comment on eating in Japan. Unlike in America, it is completely normal for people to eat alone. This has made the idea of me eating alone all the time not weird at all but instead completely normal in this culture. Every time I go somewhere to eat, there is easily 10 or so people eating alone. More people eat alone than together with someone else. I’m really happy about this because I never mind eating alone even though in the American culture, this is seen as sad and something lonely people do. This is not the case in Japan and I just wanted to comment on that.
Also, one more thing I want to comment before I sign off the for day. When you look at temples on maps in Japan, they are represented by a swastika. It takes a bit of getting used to when it comes to this because of the stigma that most people associate with a swastika. I come to find out that in the Buddhist culture, it is a very important symbol representing temples. Historically it is said to represent a lucky object, and this definitely applies to temples. I just wanted to make note of this for those visiting Japan to not be put off by seeing these on all of the maps you will use.
Ok, that’s it for Kyoto, tomorrow I take off for Osaka. I really have no idea what to expect there except for a lot of good food from what I hear. They also have an area called Dotonbori which is supposed to be some of the best night life in all of Japan and amazing food to boot! Leaving Kyoto is sad, I liked it the last few days but after today, I fell in love with it. This day in particular was not only my favorite day of this trip, but one of the best in my life. This trip just continues to get better and better!
Oyasuminasai.
- DAK
